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Alaska or Bust

We crossed into Alaska from Dawson City via the 'Top of the World Highway' named for its route along a high ridge that lifts drivers high above the seemingly never ending forest for the first time in weeks.  If you want your passport stamped for a six month entry to the US when you arrive at the Poker Creek border make sure that the wind is blowing towards Vermont otherwise the technology may not be able to oblige.  Alaska is even bigger than the Yukon and much of the state is accessible only by air or the mighty Yukon River.  Without a river craft or the budget for air travel we were confined to the roads, Shanks' pony or peddle power.  Confined is a world away from how we felt however.  Paths may be few, but opportunities for adventure are endless - so long as you can put up with a few (billion) mosquitoes.

North of the arctic circle we were treated to the midnight sun, which turned the mountains to gold - we didn't find anything more than dust when panning in the river, but this was far better.  When living in twenty four hour daylight your body clock gets confused and you find yourself doing car mechanics at two o'clock in the morning, but I was disappointed when the darkness did come back and we had to start to think about when to stop driving and find a place to camp.  Before that however we went trekking in the entirely pathless Gates of the Arctic National Park and soon wished that we had taken up the offer of the (one and only) local resident and borrowed his gun.  This is a wild place with no room for mistakes and we found ourselves very much humbled by it.  Within days however we were back out in the wilderness - this time courtesy of Denali National Park which was absolutely incredible.  We came within six feet of a great female grizzly bear and her two tiny spring cubs, cycled the length of the only track in the park over three days and were treated to simply stunning views of mount McKinley. Had it been the appropriate time of year for climbing  we would have been sorely tempted to blow a fortune and make an attempt for the summit.  All in all Alaska is a very special place and we feel privileged to have witnessed some of her wonders, as well as the odd tantrum.  I'm sure we'll be back for more in the future.


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