We crossed into Alaska from Dawson City via the 'Top of
the World Highway' named for its route along a high ridge that lifts
drivers high above the seemingly never ending forest for the first
time in weeks. If you want your passport stamped for a six
month entry to the US when you arrive at the Poker Creek border make
sure that the wind is blowing towards Vermont otherwise the
technology may not be able to oblige. Alaska is even bigger
than the Yukon and much of the state is accessible only by air or
the mighty Yukon River. Without a river craft or the budget
for air travel we were confined to the roads, Shanks' pony or peddle
power. Confined is a world away from how we felt
however. Paths may be few, but opportunities for adventure are
endless - so long as you can put up with a few (billion) mosquitoes.
North of the arctic circle we were treated to the midnight sun,
which turned the mountains to gold - we didn't find anything more
than dust when panning in the river, but this was far better.
When living in twenty four hour daylight your body clock gets
confused and you find yourself doing car mechanics at two o'clock in
the morning, but I was disappointed when the darkness did come back
and we had to start to think about when to stop driving and find a
place to camp. Before that however we went trekking in the
entirely pathless Gates of the Arctic National Park and soon wished
that we had taken up the offer of the (one and only) local resident
and borrowed his gun. This is a wild place with no room for
mistakes and we found ourselves very much humbled by it.
Within days however we were back out in the wilderness - this time
courtesy of Denali National Park which was absolutely
incredible. We came within six feet of a great female grizzly
bear and her two tiny spring cubs, cycled the length of the only
track in the park over three days and were treated to simply
stunning views of mount McKinley. Had it been the appropriate time
of year for climbing we would have been sorely tempted to blow
a fortune and make an attempt for the summit. All in all
Alaska is a very special place and we feel privileged to have
witnessed some of her wonders, as well as the odd tantrum. I'm
sure we'll be back for more in the
future.