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  Torres del Paine

The only thing south of Tierra del Fuego is Antarctica.  Wow, we were this close ... maybe just maybe we could find a way of fulfilling a lifelong ambition ?  Well after many days of trying, it became clear that it just wasn't going to happen for anything less than US$ 6,000. And even then it would be such a tease - more of a cruise around the tip of the relatively warm Antarctic Peninsula rather than time on the white continent itself.  There was nothing for it, Antarctica would have to wait.  Till next time ... 

So our thoughts inevitably turned northward and to our plans beyond South America.  As we drove south we had been making notes and dreaming up adventures for our return trip north.   Now it was time, and where better to start than the majestic granite peaks of Torres del Paine.  As we set Bee on the correct course the rains came and came and came providing views of nothing but grey sky, soggy sheep and the occasional armadillo.  Even as we pitched camp in the shadow of the peaks themselves there was nothing to see besides fellow campers shivering and steaming by sad damp fires.  We had planned to walk the full circuit in the traditional anticlockwise direction.  This is a trek that we'd been dreaming about for years, and now, here we were.  OK the weather wasn't great but this is Patagonia!   Looking at the weather, we adapted our plan - we'd trek clockwise.  An excellent decision as it turned out because, despite frequent bouts of rain and wind, we saw all the major features in reasonable and often good weather.

We had opted for the long route, a 130km circuit that is justifiably considered to be one of the World's classic treks.  The scenery is beautiful throughout and the route straight forward, so that not even we could get lost.  Instead we had plenty of opportunity to enjoy the scenery (and the weather) under the watchful eyes of the ever present condors.  By far the greatest highlight for us was the afternoon that we spent climbing up alongside the Grey Glacier.  After heavy morning rain the play of light, clouds and steam across the glacier's surface was incredible.  We could only stand and stare - for hours.

By the end of the trek our tired limbs knew all about the Torres and the Paine, but we still hadn't seen a proper view of the classic Towers themselves.  The weather forecast was again terrible but, having almost lost hope, on our final day we were blessed not only with seeing 10 huge condors circling in a single thermal close by but also with clearing clouds and finally great views of the towers, not only close up - as we drove away they continued to salute almost until we reached the Argentine border.

The Photographs 

Torres del Paine

 

The Map

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