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 Venezuela

Ever since my plane stopped briefly at Caracas on my way home from Ecuador in the early 1990s I have had a hankering to visit Venezuela. Back then it was one of the top destinations in South America. After the basic facilities in Ecuador, the polished pink granite and air conditioning of Caracas' main terminal building seemed positively palatial. This, along with the memory of the subsequent flight east along the Venezuelan coast - endless white beaches emerging directly from lush green mountain forest, before being swallowed by a pristine aquamarine Caribbean Ocean - has been imprinted on my mind for well, almost decades.

Today's Venezuela has not lived up to the promise of my earlier preview however. While the country itself is lush, green and beautiful the shine of the forest fades somewhat when you are among the messy human life that lives beneath it. In particular, for the motoring tourist the police are a real headache. There are seemingly hundreds of different police departments, each with their own uniform and set of road blocks, almost one for every half hour on the road. Police checks in themselves are fine - we've had them regularly since California - the difference here is that their main purpose appears to be to extort money from the road user. They are not looking for guns and drugs like other forces. The result was that we could not relax and enjoy what Venezuela has to offer and after a few days did not want to be there at all. Perhaps that is what Venezuela wants, but it is in stark contrast to Colombia where almost everyone wants to know what you think of their country and is keen to ensure that you are having a good time.


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