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Honduras and Nicaragua

Leaving El Salvador over a quiet mountain pass brought us into a superb part of Hondurous - high cool pine forested mountains, home to the indigenous Lenca people. We enjoyed a glorious day exploring the mountains, giving lifts to the locals and had planned to do a little tour of the wider area. Unfortuneatly however the road became just a little too adventureous - the paved road disintigrating to dirt, to rocks and coming to an abrubt end at a cliff edge, the river having washed the trail clean away. It was a fun if brief adventure and not at all what we had expected. Our ap shows this as a major road and a regular bus route. Not today I guess. A quick reassessment of our options saw us safely camped at a micro-brewery by nightfall; swapping stories (and trading Czech plumb brandy for our Cashew wine) with our fellow travelling guests.

In Nicaragua our highlights were a visit to the tranquil organic coffee estate of Selva Negra and a visit to one of the most continually active volcanoes in Central America. After several nights in towns plus the lively buzz of the brewery it was great to be in the cool of the highlands again, the relaxing sounds of the jungle close by. The business of running the farm was in itself absoloutly fascinating. Everything had a use and was reused. Nothing was wasted and a third of the substantial estate was preserved as pristine cloud forest - with no shortage of creatures judging from the evening chorus. The tranquility of the farm couldn't be more different to the steaming, belching sulphorous volcano that we camped by in the lowlands later that day. And the bats, they really do live in hot lava caves, venturing out after dusk in their millions...


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