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> The Journey > Central
America > Guatemala and El Salvador >
Overview / Journal
Guatemala and El Salvador
Elsewhere in Guatemala development is well underway, roads that show on our map as dirt tracks have been paved and down in the central valley it's as developed as anywhere in Mexico. As in Mexico however the poorest people are the Mayans. The very culture that brings so much tourist revenue. Many in the mountains and northern lowlands around Tikal still live in little more than mud huts, planting maize along highway verges (the fields behind being used to grow sugar caine or raise cattle). Their animals are nothing but skin and bone and along the roadside are many painted symbols of rival political groups; even masked youth in one town we passed through. We had considered skipping El Salvador all together, due to its reputation as the most turbulent and as our guide book put it 'raw' experience in Central America, but as we had wizzed through Guatemala so quickly we had a little extra time and decided to give it a go. And we were glad we did. Whilst there were plenty of firearms on show - every truck has an armed guard - we felt relatively safe. The people were friendly and the roads (with the exception of a busy section close to the capital) were a joy to drive. We found a great camping spot up in the 'Impossible' National Park and relaxed under the stars, dry jungle concert ringing in our ears. All in all our main feeling about El Salvador was that the world's general perception of it is twenty years out of date. Things have moved on and unless you search out the danger spots that still exist in any country you will have a good time. |
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The Photographs |
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The Map
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After our fabulous experiences in Belize and
all the hype surrounding the Tikal ruins Guatemala had a lot to live
up to. What we found was a country that whilst obviously working
hard to develop, still seemed pretty turbulent and raw around the
edges. Tikal itself was a haven for both tourists and wildlife. From
our green grassy campsite we saw toucans and spider monkeys, before
even venturing into the park propper. Tikal is managed more as a
jungle walking safari than a standard archaeological site. The
buildings are hidden in the jungle waiting to be 'discovered' some,
even major ones, have not even had the jungle prized off of their
walls. Others have been largely restored and can be climbed via
nerve wracking near vertical wooden staircases. Those sacrificing
high priests must have been extremely nimble with a great head for
heights to operate from their mighty temple offices. The view from
the top however is well worth the risk to life and limb.